Gamemaster 760 forend removal

funkyrabbit · Post by **funkyrabbit** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:02 pm

I need some help removing the forend from my 760. I just don't see how to get it off without busting it. I'm stuck!

funkyrabbit · Post by **funkyrabbit** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:53 pm

Found it. You say the tube the forend glides on unscrews correct?

funkyrabbit · Post by **funkyrabbit** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:30 pm

Ok I am a MORON . May I E-mail you with a couple of pictures of where I am at with this. I can not get the action tube to budge. I broke the punch!!

I have got to be doing somthing wrong or my 760 is different than what you have outlined in your prior post about the forend removal.

funkyrabbit · Post by **funkyrabbit** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:17 pm

Well it took little bit more than a tapping to remove it, but its off. Now I can get moving forward on making a new forarm. Thanks for the all the help. I could not have done it without your assistance. I have made the stock already and its in the finishing room. I will send you a photo of the finished product.

The Rifleman · Post by **The Rifleman** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:18 pm

Here is a secret to taking the fore arm off the Gamemaster / 7600.

Put a small piece of cloth inside the action.

It will keep the bolt from locking inside the barrel.

Take the screw out of the end of the forearm.

Now pump the fore arm back and forth and it will come off the tube.

I never heard of anyone hammering it with a punch to get it off.

What happens is that the tube rusts and it swells inside of the wood because nobody takes it off and gives it a coat of oil once in a while.

The forearm ends up cracking under the barrel - where you cannot see it and when you go to take it off. It is rusted to the wood.

A little bit of vasoline goes a long way to keeping it from rusting.

Just take it off once a year and lubricate it and it will never rust.

funkyrabbit · Post by **funkyrabbit** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:19 pm

I was trying to remove the action tube when the punch was broken, the instructions that I had read indicated to use a punch to unscrew the action tube. I was not using a punch on the forend.

I did try the rag in receiver trick but it the forend would not budge it had not been removed for many years. I ended up sending a few pictures to another user and he was able to assist in the removal.

Thanks for the responce. I have both the forend and stock in the finishing room. Stock is looking great but the forend is coming out a bit to dark, they just are not matching like I would like. ( made from the same burl of walnut, I made two more to try to get them to match up a bit better but to early to tell as of right now I may get them sanded tonight)

The Rifleman · Post by **The Rifleman** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:39 am

To remove the tube, you have to heat it up with a propane torch.

It has red loctite on it and most of the times it will not budge.

I have drilled the holes out on some that were butchered to 3/16'ths of 1 inch.

It makes it easier to get the punch inside the holes to turn the tube.

funkyrabbit · Post by **funkyrabbit** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:28 am

I have taken it down as far as I need for the time being. The forend was cracked to the point it needed to be replaced. The stock was in fair condition but I wanted them made from the same burl so the grain would match. BUT, I was not pleased with the first one, the grain just was not what I was looking for. I will print the info out in case it is needed at later date. Thanks for the input.

lifelongnra · Post by **lifelongnra** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:03 pm

Hello, Can we keep this thread going. I am new, what's up!!!
It is now 2010
3 years later.
Did you ever get your stocks fixed and would you sell me a forearm? Is this the early 760 or later?
I just bought an old model made in 59 it has the 5 Diamond forend and the stock has the checkering that looks like an arrow(kinda)anyway the stock is in real good looking shap but and that's but it is cracked bad at the butt plate through the swivel screw on both sides.

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