New to me New Model Army- a couple questions.

[bczrx]

Hello All,

Just picked up a New Model Army with the 3 line barrel markings and a serial number in the 111xxx block.

From what I've read that puts it approximately in the November 1864 production run.


The cylinder rotates properly and the bolt/stop pops up and holds it. I need to verify alignment but am waiting for range rods in .45 before I do that.


I have a concern, and then a couple more questions- and could use advice from the collective about these.

The concern is that the trigger pull feels closer to 10lbs than 3-5lbs. Is this normal for Civil War era Percussion Caps?

I am more used to the 3-5lb pull on my other blackpowder revolvers [U and P 1858, U Walker, ROA].

Is this something that can be cured with a replacement reproduction spring and some light dressing down of the trigger/hammer sear surfaces?


The advice questions are about shooting this revolver.

First Question: how many of you actually fire your civil war era 1858s?

• My goal would be to use this with .451 ball [or .454] and no more than 22gr of Pyrodex of Triple 7 [I don't have real black powder], with filler, wad and bore butter over ball.
  The barrel has minor corrosion spots from prior use [2-3 spots about the size of a dime, at most]. The chambers don't seem to show any spots. I want to remove the nipples, clean and replace.

Second question: if I want to replace nipples, what thread size am I looking at? Track of the Wolf has something for 'older colt and remington revolvers', but they don't specify which model.

Third question, has anyone fit either a Pietta or Uberti cylinder to the original Remington and used it? Just thinking of ways to reduce risks and still fire the original pistol.

I realize the steel is 160 years old. However, I believe the revolver was originally loaded with 30-35 gr of black powder and I am keeping it at/below 22 to reduce pressure spikes.

I am not a collector and really have absolutely no concerns about collectors value. I am a shooter who wants to use what I have, but who also values and respects history.

My concerns about shooting it are strictly about safety. I don't expect it to be as accurate, or handle as high of pressures, as modern reproductions from Pietta or Uberti. Yet, I would think 22gr would keep the pressure low enough to not be an issue- as long as the cylinder mouth is aligned properly with the forcing cone/barrel.

What are your thoughts?

[dpg06va]

Hello,
The Remington New Model Army is wonderful to shoot and many are still used in competitions, both individual bullseye targets and team events with breakable targets. The original trigger pull is very heavy as you have identified. The one I shoot was modified by my father in the 1950's to a 3.5 lb trigger pull but I don't know what he did to achieve that. Probably dressed the hammer sear.

Pulling the nipples can be problematic and they have a unique thread (different from reproduction pistols). If the cones are in reasonable shape and you clean until you can see light into the chambers, the loads should ignite. You may have to try different percussion caps to find what fits most securely and even then the caps may need a squeeze to hold tight. Remember, chain fires can occur if caps fall off of loaded chambers, not just fire jumping at the mouths of unsealed chambers.

I load a .454 round ball (the .451 slid in a little too easily). My powder is 22 gr of Goex 3fg. I use a wad over the powder, then add Quaker Quick Grits as a filler, another wad, the ball, then seal the chamber with my own concoction of bore butter.

Even with the reduced load, the NMA is known to hit very high. My experience is that the quality of steel in the late war NMAs is very good! Mine is in the 93xxx range and is very reliable.

Good shooting.

[bczrx]

dpg06va,

thanks for the info and welcome.

I am still getting used to things and didn't realize I had a reply until tonight. I don't know if I am not getting messages about responses or what is going on.

I've fixed the trigger and now it breaks right around 3.5-4lbs, with a crisp break.

I found a gunsmith that specializes in pre-1899 firearms and has experience in removing frozen/stuck nipples. The cylinder is with him now.


I have a NEW question though.


I have also fitted a new cylinder/bolt stop to prevent the cylinder from wandering too much, as it was flopping around a LOT on side to side play.

However, I began wondering if I should go the S&W/Ruger path of some side wiggle room [for self-alignment of bullet entering feed mouth of barrel] or the path of Colt revolvers with their 'bank vault lockup' and no wiggle room in any direction when the trigger is held back.

[dpg06va]

Glad you're making progress getting the NMA into shape. Sorry, I don't know an answer regarding the amount of play vs. lock-up of the cylinder. Hope someone else can answer that.

[Hawg]

There shouldn't be very much side to side play. You will most likely have to use heat to get the nipples out or you will wind up using heat and an Ez Out. Italian nipples won't work. You will need to find nipples with the original thread size. I wouldn't worry about using full loads or at least 30 grains of powder. It's not Damascus.

[marlinman93]

Cocking the hammer and checking for cylinder play isn't quite complete. As the trigger is pulled the cylinder lockup gets slightly better so you should check lockup by cocking the hammer and then hold it back as you pull the trigger. You'll notice the lockup is usually a little better than it was just cocked and checking.

[bczrx]

Cocking the hammer and checking for cylinder play isn't quite complete. As the trigger is pulled the cylinder lockup gets slightly better so you should check lockup by cocking the hammer and then hold it back as you pull the trigger. You'll notice the lockup is usually a little better than it was just cocked and checking.

Marlinman93, is this true for the Remington design also? I know it is true in my Ruger single action revolvers and my Uberti Walker.

However, when I pull the trigger and control the hammer fall I can see the 'hand/pawl' retracting in relationship to the hammer moving forward.

I saw this looking into the top of the hammer slot in the frame and confirmed it when looking at the side of the action.

I believe I've seen the same thing in my Pietta 1858, but haven't dug it out of the safe to confirm this.

[marlinman93]

The hand and pawl simply move the cylinder. They don't index it. The little notches you see at each chamber on the outside of the cylinder are for the cylinder stop, which keeps the cylinder locked inline with the barrel. The stop is an L shaped part that interacts with the trigger, so when the trigger is pulled the hammer drops, and the stop is held against the cylinder by the stop and trigger interaction. Once the trigger is released it drops off the stop and allows the cylinder to turn again. So holding the trigger back gives a little tension on the stop.